Tag Archives: Glycolic acid

Are You Using the Best Cleanser For Your Skin?

First a quick A & P lesson: What does your skin do for you?  A cool .05 inches thick, it protects your body from alien invaders, expels toxins and locks in water so that you don’t shrivel up like a prune.  The layer that we are most obsessed with in the beauty world is the saucy little horny layer known as the stratum corneum.  It is called the horny layer because the cells are cornified  and rough in order to serve it’s protective purpose.  This is the layer that is continuously being sloughed off.  The cells are held together with sticky fatty glue making your most glamorous layer of skin waterproof.  Overlying the stratum corneum is the acid mantle. This is a very thin layer of fatty  (oil), sweat, and proteins with an acidic ph of 4- 6.5.

How Cleansers Work:  Your cleanser must be formulated with the pH of the acid mantle in mind….A pH higher than 7 is alkaline and very drying to skin, while a pH of 5-7 will be more moisturizing.  If your cleanser leaves your skin feeling tight and dry after washing your face- it is stripping the acid mantle, and you need a new cleanser. Check your labels- look for ingredients that are known to effectively and safely clean the skin>> isohexadecane, DEA, and sodium lauryl sulfate. Never use soap to wash your face (most soaps have a pH of  9 or higher!)  Cleansers are not all created equally and must be formulated for your skin type.

Choosing Your Cleanser: 

Oily and acne prone skin- clearly has more fats, bacteria, and grime to clear away.  Your face wash should contain salicylic acid and/or alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid. Recommendations: AHA/BHA Cleansing Gel by Renée Rouleau, Facial Wash Oily/Problem by PCAdD Budget Beauty OptionAlba Pineapple Skin Enzyme Facial Cleanser.

Dry and sensitive skin- needs a cleanser with properties that moisturize.  Look for creamy formulas containing emollients and/or lactic acid.  Recommendations: Skinceuticals Gentle Cleanser, Boscia Soothing Cleansing Cream, Obagi’s Rosaclear Sensitive Skin Cleanser.  dD Budget Beauty OptionCetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

Combination Skin– A glycolic acid cleanser should work great for you.  Recommendations-Vivite Facial Cleanser, Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash . dD Budget Beauty Option: Smart Essentials Pore Purifying Facial Wash by Aveeno

Glycolic Acid for celebrity perfect skin….ahem minus the photoshop wizard.

Glycolic acid has the very desirable talent of “softening” fine lines (that is esthetician and nurse speak for:  Don’t even think it’s going to eradicate ALL of those wrinkles).  Sun damage and the faux mustache known as “melasma” is also nipped in the bud.  This is done over a series of treatments, and  I typically will recommend anywhere from 6-8 peels, spaced around 3-4 weeks apart with 40-60% glycolic acid.   Chemical peeling of any type dissolves the desmosomes (sticky glue) that hold the skin cells together.  These peels also strip lipids that make up the acid mantel that protects us from bacterial invasions and dry skin, so you must replace what you take away.  Following a peel,  a rich anti-inflammatory moisturizer should be part of your recovery with a healthy fat dollop of sunscreen.  Stay off the actives that you have bought and use religiously because you are a very well-educated DermaDarling follower for 7-10 days  (vitamin c, AHAs, retinol, and hydroquinone) .  The peels range in price from $120- 250 each depending on your city. I would highly recommend getting a package of 6 to save some cash, since you know you are going to have to have more than one.   Glycolic acid should be a considered addition to your bag of tricks for smooth gorgeous skin.  Celebrities rumored to be fans of Glycolic acid: Cher, Janice Dickenson, Naomi Campbell.

You are not a candidate for a glycolic peel if:

You have sensitive skin

You want instant results

You want no social “downtime”

You want nothing less than a blooming miracle

You are standing in front of the counter at the nail salon asking about their LivingSocial glycolic acid discount

 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I will be teaching an advanced chemical peel course at the Elaine Sterling Institute the first week in November.  For more information on how you can advance your esthetic career please call ESI at 1-877-233-5246