Tag Archives: Esthetics

Those squirly fine lines don’t stand a chance!

You can Botox that gorgeous face till the cows come home, but you won’t see those static lines going away anytime soon.  Static lines are the squirly little fine lines that are visible when you aren’t using your muscles to make a facial expression.  They typically show up in your 30s but can grace you with their presence as early as your twenties.   There is no reason to wave that white flag when you start seeing these feisty lines of fury.  Enter the big guns.  With the invention of tretinoin, chemical peels, and fractionated resurfacing, those babies don’t stand a chance!  When deciding which strong arm to bring into the rink against fine lines, you have to keep your schedule in mind.  Not every resurfacing method is created equal when it comes to beauty down time.  Tretinoin is a cream that resurfaces slowly over time.  You may have some minor flaking, but no real down time.  Chemical peels take about 3-5 to run their course of shedding.  You will have anywhere from light flaking to peeling like a snake depending on your peel choice.  Then finally there is the laser peel with fractionated resurfacing.  Enter the Pixel.  The Pixel resurfaces the skin by lasering tiny channels into the skin leaving a majority of the skin untouched and healthy.  Beauty down time is only about 3-4 days, and you get the benefits of stopping those fine lines, dark spots, and loose skin in only 2-3 treatments.

Glycolic Acid for celebrity perfect skin….ahem minus the photoshop wizard.

Glycolic acid has the very desirable talent of “softening” fine lines (that is esthetician and nurse speak for:  Don’t even think it’s going to eradicate ALL of those wrinkles).  Sun damage and the faux mustache known as “melasma” is also nipped in the bud.  This is done over a series of treatments, and  I typically will recommend anywhere from 6-8 peels, spaced around 3-4 weeks apart with 40-60% glycolic acid.   Chemical peeling of any type dissolves the desmosomes (sticky glue) that hold the skin cells together.  These peels also strip lipids that make up the acid mantel that protects us from bacterial invasions and dry skin, so you must replace what you take away.  Following a peel,  a rich anti-inflammatory moisturizer should be part of your recovery with a healthy fat dollop of sunscreen.  Stay off the actives that you have bought and use religiously because you are a very well-educated DermaDarling follower for 7-10 days  (vitamin c, AHAs, retinol, and hydroquinone) .  The peels range in price from $120- 250 each depending on your city. I would highly recommend getting a package of 6 to save some cash, since you know you are going to have to have more than one.   Glycolic acid should be a considered addition to your bag of tricks for smooth gorgeous skin.  Celebrities rumored to be fans of Glycolic acid: Cher, Janice Dickenson, Naomi Campbell.

You are not a candidate for a glycolic peel if:

You have sensitive skin

You want instant results

You want no social “downtime”

You want nothing less than a blooming miracle

You are standing in front of the counter at the nail salon asking about their LivingSocial glycolic acid discount

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I will be teaching an advanced chemical peel course at the Elaine Sterling Institute the first week in November.  For more information on how you can advance your esthetic career please call ESI at 1-877-233-5246

Salicylic acid kicks acne in the teeth, but what about wrinkles?

Even Megan Fox battles the skin gods. Salicylic acid peels should be in her arsenal.

Dubbed by cosmetic chemists on the well toured Chemists Corner blog as ” The most versatile [topical compound] for cosmetic formulators”, this feisty little acid is a gold standard for acne control with anti aging benefits.  Salicylic Acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid   (BHA) has been proven to stand up against Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, and tartaric acids) when it comes to skin cell turnover and improving skin tone and texture.  How does it work and who will it work for?  BHA is oil soluble and penetrates that slick layer covering oily skin in order to get deep into the pores for exfoliation and to speed up skin cell turnover. For comparison, AHAs such as glycolic acid are water-soluble and better suited for dry, weathered, sun damaged skin that has been thickened with the elements and genetics.  So, yes!, Salicylic Acid (BHA) exfoliates to not only reduce acne but over time helps to reverse photo damage and smooth pesky wrinkles as well.

Great salicylic Acid products and chemical peels to clear your skin and soften those lines:

PCA Clarifying Mask and the PCA Pumpkin Peel

Obagi Clenziderm 2% salicylic Acid treatment

Obagi Blue Radiance Peel

V.I. Peel

Derma Doctor Aint Misbehavin’ Serum