Tag Archives: Cleanser

Are You Using the Best Cleanser For Your Skin?

First a quick A & P lesson: What does your skin do for you?  A cool .05 inches thick, it protects your body from alien invaders, expels toxins and locks in water so that you don’t shrivel up like a prune.  The layer that we are most obsessed with in the beauty world is the saucy little horny layer known as the stratum corneum.  It is called the horny layer because the cells are cornified  and rough in order to serve it’s protective purpose.  This is the layer that is continuously being sloughed off.  The cells are held together with sticky fatty glue making your most glamorous layer of skin waterproof.  Overlying the stratum corneum is the acid mantle. This is a very thin layer of fatty  (oil), sweat, and proteins with an acidic ph of 4- 6.5.

How Cleansers Work:  Your cleanser must be formulated with the pH of the acid mantle in mind….A pH higher than 7 is alkaline and very drying to skin, while a pH of 5-7 will be more moisturizing.  If your cleanser leaves your skin feeling tight and dry after washing your face- it is stripping the acid mantle, and you need a new cleanser. Check your labels- look for ingredients that are known to effectively and safely clean the skin>> isohexadecane, DEA, and sodium lauryl sulfate. Never use soap to wash your face (most soaps have a pH of  9 or higher!)  Cleansers are not all created equally and must be formulated for your skin type.

Choosing Your Cleanser: 

Oily and acne prone skin- clearly has more fats, bacteria, and grime to clear away.  Your face wash should contain salicylic acid and/or alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid. Recommendations: AHA/BHA Cleansing Gel by Renée Rouleau, Facial Wash Oily/Problem by PCAdD Budget Beauty OptionAlba Pineapple Skin Enzyme Facial Cleanser.

Dry and sensitive skin- needs a cleanser with properties that moisturize.  Look for creamy formulas containing emollients and/or lactic acid.  Recommendations: Skinceuticals Gentle Cleanser, Boscia Soothing Cleansing Cream, Obagi’s Rosaclear Sensitive Skin Cleanser.  dD Budget Beauty OptionCetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

Combination Skin– A glycolic acid cleanser should work great for you.  Recommendations-Vivite Facial Cleanser, Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash . dD Budget Beauty Option: Smart Essentials Pore Purifying Facial Wash by Aveeno

What is in a Smashing Skin Care Routine?

Skin care.  Sounds easy enough.  Slather on lotions, creams, serums and sunscreens in hopes of slowing down the heavy hand of age, and hope for the best.  Hope for the best? Hope is not exactly who I want in the ring as I fight off father time.  I want heavy hitters and appropriate ingredients that will help me maintain my dewy fresh skin and make my foes a little jealous!  Enter the routine:

Cleanse-  Your cleanser needs to be chosen based on your skin quality: Are you Oily, Dry, Sensitive, or combination.  Dry skin tends to do well with creamy cleansers.  Oily and problem skin does well with low PH washes and lactic acid.  Sensitive skin does best with very mild cleansers with calming ingredients.

Exfoliate- Only the finest of exfoliants should come in contact with your precious face.  Steer clear of coarse grainy exfoliators such as St. Ives.  These particles nick the skin and cause irritation and redness. Choose exfoliants that are gentle and only use them up to 3 times weekly.  Also build in retinoids at night and/ or glycolic acid as daily chemical exfoliators (to be used after toning).  The best approach is to allow your dermatologist, nurse, or esthetician assist you in choosing exfoliation appropriate to your skin type and quality.

Tone- this step restores the PH balance of the skin and  prepares your skin for the absorption of other ingredients.

Treat- Remember “clear before creamy!” The order of application is very important! Serums, gels, creamy serums, lotions, then creams for best penetration!

Moisturize- acts as a barrier.  petroleum is not the most popular kid in class, but this heavy-duty moisturizer is a must for dry skin.  Water based formulas that are non-comedegenic are best for oily skin.  Sensitive skin formulas should contain chamomile, bisabolol, or green tea and clay.

Protect- look for a sunscreen that is at least SPF 30 and Zinc or Titanium based, and don’t skimp!  Sunscreen is the single most important product in your arsenal.  Every single day, you must put on sunscreen no matter if you plan to be outside or not. My clients hide from me if they have a tan or sun burn because I threaten bodily harm:)

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My Skin:  Oily, sensitive, acne prone.

My Routine:  I am a skin care junkie, but no matter what I rotate in or out of my routine this is what I end up going back to.

Day: Obagi- Rosaclear Gentle Cleanser, Obagi- Toner, PCA Rejuvenation Serum, Obai C-serum 10% (only around my eyes) followed by IS Youth Eye Serum, Obagi Rosaclear Calming Hydrator, PCA Perfecting Proctection SPF 30.

Night: Obagi- Rosaclear Gentle Cleanser, Obagi- Toner, tretinoin 0.25%, Obagi Rosaclear Calming Hydrator

Weekly: PCA gentle exfoliant 3 times weekly

Monthly: Facial with extractions

Yearly: VI Peel 2-3 times a year

Day 2 of my 3rd VI Peel of the year. ~