Category Archives: anti-aging

Intrinsic Aging Vs Extrinsic Aging. Why you should listen to your nurse!

Don’t forget sunscreen, don’t smoke, don’t poke at your face, don’t drink too much alcohol, don’t forget to wear sunglasses!  Bossy pants experts spout out orders all over the place.  Have you ever thought, I look hot now so what harm will a little sun and little social smoking do?  Let me explain the difference between Intrinsic Aging and Extrinsic Aging.

Intrinsic Aging is the natural occuring process by which our youth crumbles.  Thank your mother, because her genes were gifted to you as well as her sagging jaw line and under eye bags.  Intrinsic aging can be done beautifully by eating a very healthy diet full of greens and healthy fats, drinking half your body weight in ounces of water a day, and exercising.

Extrinsic Aging is the low down and ugly youth crushing effects of your own lifestyle indulgences.  Extrinsic aging is brought down on you in the form of sun spots, wrinkles, and thickened skin.  Think of this the next time you forget to put on sunscreen or think that just one night of debauchery won’t cause any ill effects!  Fight extrinsic aging by avoiding the sun, cigarettes, marijuana, and making fun of overweight cheerleaders at your 20th high school reunion.

Now for the twin studies!

Non smoking twin/ smoking twin
Intrinsic aging vs extrinsic aging

Intrinsic aging vs Extrinsic Aging
sun avoidance vs sun worship

Perfect Foundation for Sensitive, Acne Prone, and Post Procedure Skin!

I was astounded when I found a website that promotes slathering on liquid foundation post laser skin peel (fractional ablative resurfacing).  I would never dream of putting makeup on freshly lasered skin, but the concept was very appealing.  I imagined the swarms of beautiful girls leaving my treatment room with gorgeous glowing skin instead of flaming red and goopy with Aquaphore.  I promptly called the company and began trials with my post peel clients.  They were completely astounded by how the foundation cooled their skin down and covered every trace that they had just gone under the laser!  The foundation is called Oxygenetix and is an aloe vera based liquid foundation that covers like a breathable second skin. Sensitive skin loves this light weight calming product and it is perfectly safe and even healing after procedures such as resurfacing, microdermabrasion, and FotoFacials.  Most of my clients become addicted to this foundation and continue to use it after they have healed from their procedures.  It gives the prettiest soft glow you can get from a bottle, and despite being used as a camouflage makeup, is very light weight and virtually flawless.

Immediately post Pixel skin resurfacing.

Don’t let the fear of down time and having to hide after your laser treatment keep you from aging sexy!  Get your gorgeous paws on Oxygenetix before going under the beam.

We carry this at Chastain Wellness Studio in Atlanta, Ga.  404-252-6662

Age Sexy! Top Ten Commandments.

Helen Mirren rocks the sexy at 60 vibe!

I have so many clients in their 50s and 60s that are truly sexy and inspiring.  Working with them has taken my fear of aging and shook it out like a dirty rug.  I have interviewed many of these little foxes about how they have aged so sexy, and there are common denominators!  We must listen to our bodies and learn to play them like the fine instruments they are.

We now know that inflammation wreaks havoc on our poor little bodies.  Inflammation is a cellular response caused by the body’s defense mechanism that also speeds up aging!  Aging can be a beautiful and sexy maturation if you take control of your habbits and live with awareness.

The Age Sexy Top Ten Commandments:

I.   Stop smoking– this includes tobacco and various weed varietals.  If you have smoked in your youth, load up on antioxidants to assist your body in it’s recovery.  None of my foxy 60 year old clients are smokers.

II.  Exercise–  The gals that I work on that make me excited to turn 50 are all heavy exercisers.  Some are champion ice skaters, alot of pilates junkies, and they sure don’t back down from the 60 minutes a day rule.

III.  Take time for yourself–  Make time to exercise, eat well, take a bath, travel, get a massage.  Know when to call the calendar full.

IV.  Maintenance and shameless self preservation–  These gorgeous gals are in to see me often for skin resurfacing, cellulite smoothing, photo rejuvenation and medical grade skin care.  They don’t think of it as anything more than maintenance.  Make a budget and alow yourself a little Botox a few times a year and a resurfacing treatment once or twice a year.

V.  Diet–  A diet high in fruits and vegetables and low on inflammatory foods such as dairy, meat, and gluten will keep you glowing and your skin smooth well into the golden years.  Drink no less than 9 glasses a day of water.

VI.  Manage Stress–  Take yoga, indulge in a therapist (your hair stylist doesn’t count), take lots of time to be with your friends and family, leave work at work, and cut out caffeine.

VII.  Give Freely &  share your blessings– Don’t just count your blessings but share them.  The women I interviewed were all altruistic in one form or another.  Some run charity organizations, while others leave amazing tips to their service providers (thank you very much!)

VIII.  Skin Care–  Tretinoin, Vitamin C, Sunscreen, Moisturizer, Obagi’s Elastiderm Eye Treatment + monthly rendevous with your esthetician =  Perfectly ageless skin.

IX.  Sun Protection–  If there was one piece of advice my sassy age-less clients would give you it is to stay out of the sun so that you don’t have to spend all the money they have had to spend to clean up the resulting mess!  Sunspots age you quicker than any thing.

X.  Alcohol– Practice moderation.  My gals aren’t afraid to knock back a glass of bubbly every now and then, but you won’t find them nursing a hang-over.

Darling, Don’t Be So Sensitive!

Sensitive skin can be a real pill to manage.  First, you have to decide whether your skin is simply sensitive or sensitized.   If your skin is rosy and stings with most products and has been that way since you remember slathering on your first fancy clinique moisturizer back in the day, you likely have sensitive skin.  If you are a skin care junky, have had more chemical peels than Joan Rivers, and just recently started noticing more redness and break outs then you are most likely suffering from sensitized skin.  I speak with great wisdom as I myself frequently destroy the acid mantle that protects my fair skin in effort to remain wrinkle free with various peels and creams.  If you feel the wrath of angry skin post procedure or general sensitivity there are ways to tame the beast, but it does take precious time- something those of us that enjoy peeling our faces off monthly tend to lack.  Here is the plan:

1.  Don’t panic.  Your skin will naturally repair its barrier function.    It could take more than a full skin cycle, so you could be sensitive for 30-45 days or more.

2.  Avoid all known sensitizers!-  Absolutely, positively, no matter how tempted you may be at the Sephora counter- DO NOT buy any new creams to fix the breakouts, dry skin, rash or redness.  Your skin needs a break.  No chemical peels, tretinoin, glycolic acid, lactic acid or microdermabrasion.

3.  Read your stinkin’ labels!  If your cleanser contains Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Sodium Laureth Sulfate, chunk it.  It is a well-known skin bully and is no doubt adding to your plight.  Despite the fact that it is the main ingredient in laundry detergent, is labeled as a cancer causing agent in California, and is used explicitly because it is loose and cheap, SLS is an all too common ingredient. Read the labels even if the cleanser is labeled for sensitive skin.  FYI- I was surprised to discover that my favorite sensitive skin cleanser by Obagi lists SLS as the 4th ingredient- bummer!   Even Cetaphil, the gold standard gentle cleanser recommended by dermatologists, is loaded with this foul beast.  It is a travesty!

4.  Mind your diet.  Common foods that damage your precious skin and cause the dreaded inflammatory response: Sugar, red meat, gluten &  alcohol (I almost left that last one out because it upsets me so much;).

5.  Look for soothing ingredients in your makeup and moisturizer such as  bisabolol, aloe, chamomile, green tea, & red clay

6.  Do not use a wash cloth (usually contains detergent leftover from laundry), the beloved Clarisonic, a loofah or any other skin cleansing tool.  Use your delicate little paws to cleanse.

7.  See your esthetician for monthly facials to keep breakouts at bay and let her know that you battle sensitivity.

Derma Darling Recommended Products for Fragile Vixens (contains zero SLS):

Oxygenetix Foundations and Moisturizer (Sincerely the best makeup and moisturizer that I have ever come across for lighter skin tones that are sensitive and acne prone) It is hard to get your grubby paws on, but if you email me- I have connections;)

REN Canendula and Arctic Blackcurrant Seed Cleansing Milk

Jan Mirini C-Estam Cleansing Gel

Jan Mirini BioClean – Non Glycolic Acid Cleanser

Sexy Green Drink for Glowing Skin!

Raw green smoothies are all the rage in the beauty industry.  Daily guzzling of rich antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals will no doubt nourish your skin from the inside out.  Raw foodies have long since discovered that consuming live raw greens and fruits give them a truly radiant glow.  To get your own glow try, this shake daily instead of your usual breakfast.  I am using my trusty food processor and blending it for about 5 minutes.  It’s delish!  I recently found a book by Kimberly Snider called the Beauty Detox Solution.  It is full of great tips, recipes and tricks on how to increase your consumption of raw leafy greens to get you skinny and glowing!

Derma Darling’s Sexy Green Smoothie

1 bunch of  baby kale

1 small bunch of spinach

1 apple

1 mango

3 stalks of celery

1 pear

1 cup of water

Are You Using the Best Cleanser For Your Skin?

First a quick A & P lesson: What does your skin do for you?  A cool .05 inches thick, it protects your body from alien invaders, expels toxins and locks in water so that you don’t shrivel up like a prune.  The layer that we are most obsessed with in the beauty world is the saucy little horny layer known as the stratum corneum.  It is called the horny layer because the cells are cornified  and rough in order to serve it’s protective purpose.  This is the layer that is continuously being sloughed off.  The cells are held together with sticky fatty glue making your most glamorous layer of skin waterproof.  Overlying the stratum corneum is the acid mantle. This is a very thin layer of fatty  (oil), sweat, and proteins with an acidic ph of 4- 6.5.

How Cleansers Work:  Your cleanser must be formulated with the pH of the acid mantle in mind….A pH higher than 7 is alkaline and very drying to skin, while a pH of 5-7 will be more moisturizing.  If your cleanser leaves your skin feeling tight and dry after washing your face- it is stripping the acid mantle, and you need a new cleanser. Check your labels- look for ingredients that are known to effectively and safely clean the skin>> isohexadecane, DEA, and sodium lauryl sulfate. Never use soap to wash your face (most soaps have a pH of  9 or higher!)  Cleansers are not all created equally and must be formulated for your skin type.

Choosing Your Cleanser: 

Oily and acne prone skin- clearly has more fats, bacteria, and grime to clear away.  Your face wash should contain salicylic acid and/or alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid. Recommendations: AHA/BHA Cleansing Gel by Renée Rouleau, Facial Wash Oily/Problem by PCAdD Budget Beauty OptionAlba Pineapple Skin Enzyme Facial Cleanser.

Dry and sensitive skin- needs a cleanser with properties that moisturize.  Look for creamy formulas containing emollients and/or lactic acid.  Recommendations: Skinceuticals Gentle Cleanser, Boscia Soothing Cleansing Cream, Obagi’s Rosaclear Sensitive Skin Cleanser.  dD Budget Beauty OptionCetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

Combination Skin– A glycolic acid cleanser should work great for you.  Recommendations-Vivite Facial Cleanser, Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 3% Facial Wash . dD Budget Beauty Option: Smart Essentials Pore Purifying Facial Wash by Aveeno

What is in a Smashing Skin Care Routine?

Skin care.  Sounds easy enough.  Slather on lotions, creams, serums and sunscreens in hopes of slowing down the heavy hand of age, and hope for the best.  Hope for the best? Hope is not exactly who I want in the ring as I fight off father time.  I want heavy hitters and appropriate ingredients that will help me maintain my dewy fresh skin and make my foes a little jealous!  Enter the routine:

Cleanse-  Your cleanser needs to be chosen based on your skin quality: Are you Oily, Dry, Sensitive, or combination.  Dry skin tends to do well with creamy cleansers.  Oily and problem skin does well with low PH washes and lactic acid.  Sensitive skin does best with very mild cleansers with calming ingredients.

Exfoliate- Only the finest of exfoliants should come in contact with your precious face.  Steer clear of coarse grainy exfoliators such as St. Ives.  These particles nick the skin and cause irritation and redness. Choose exfoliants that are gentle and only use them up to 3 times weekly.  Also build in retinoids at night and/ or glycolic acid as daily chemical exfoliators (to be used after toning).  The best approach is to allow your dermatologist, nurse, or esthetician assist you in choosing exfoliation appropriate to your skin type and quality.

Tone- this step restores the PH balance of the skin and  prepares your skin for the absorption of other ingredients.

Treat- Remember “clear before creamy!” The order of application is very important! Serums, gels, creamy serums, lotions, then creams for best penetration!

Moisturize- acts as a barrier.  petroleum is not the most popular kid in class, but this heavy-duty moisturizer is a must for dry skin.  Water based formulas that are non-comedegenic are best for oily skin.  Sensitive skin formulas should contain chamomile, bisabolol, or green tea and clay.

Protect- look for a sunscreen that is at least SPF 30 and Zinc or Titanium based, and don’t skimp!  Sunscreen is the single most important product in your arsenal.  Every single day, you must put on sunscreen no matter if you plan to be outside or not. My clients hide from me if they have a tan or sun burn because I threaten bodily harm:)

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My Skin:  Oily, sensitive, acne prone.

My Routine:  I am a skin care junkie, but no matter what I rotate in or out of my routine this is what I end up going back to.

Day: Obagi- Rosaclear Gentle Cleanser, Obagi- Toner, PCA Rejuvenation Serum, Obai C-serum 10% (only around my eyes) followed by IS Youth Eye Serum, Obagi Rosaclear Calming Hydrator, PCA Perfecting Proctection SPF 30.

Night: Obagi- Rosaclear Gentle Cleanser, Obagi- Toner, tretinoin 0.25%, Obagi Rosaclear Calming Hydrator

Weekly: PCA gentle exfoliant 3 times weekly

Monthly: Facial with extractions

Yearly: VI Peel 2-3 times a year

Day 2 of my 3rd VI Peel of the year. ~

Those squirly fine lines don’t stand a chance!

You can Botox that gorgeous face till the cows come home, but you won’t see those static lines going away anytime soon.  Static lines are the squirly little fine lines that are visible when you aren’t using your muscles to make a facial expression.  They typically show up in your 30s but can grace you with their presence as early as your twenties.   There is no reason to wave that white flag when you start seeing these feisty lines of fury.  Enter the big guns.  With the invention of tretinoin, chemical peels, and fractionated resurfacing, those babies don’t stand a chance!  When deciding which strong arm to bring into the rink against fine lines, you have to keep your schedule in mind.  Not every resurfacing method is created equal when it comes to beauty down time.  Tretinoin is a cream that resurfaces slowly over time.  You may have some minor flaking, but no real down time.  Chemical peels take about 3-5 to run their course of shedding.  You will have anywhere from light flaking to peeling like a snake depending on your peel choice.  Then finally there is the laser peel with fractionated resurfacing.  Enter the Pixel.  The Pixel resurfaces the skin by lasering tiny channels into the skin leaving a majority of the skin untouched and healthy.  Beauty down time is only about 3-4 days, and you get the benefits of stopping those fine lines, dark spots, and loose skin in only 2-3 treatments.

Glycolic Acid for celebrity perfect skin….ahem minus the photoshop wizard.

Glycolic acid has the very desirable talent of “softening” fine lines (that is esthetician and nurse speak for:  Don’t even think it’s going to eradicate ALL of those wrinkles).  Sun damage and the faux mustache known as “melasma” is also nipped in the bud.  This is done over a series of treatments, and  I typically will recommend anywhere from 6-8 peels, spaced around 3-4 weeks apart with 40-60% glycolic acid.   Chemical peeling of any type dissolves the desmosomes (sticky glue) that hold the skin cells together.  These peels also strip lipids that make up the acid mantel that protects us from bacterial invasions and dry skin, so you must replace what you take away.  Following a peel,  a rich anti-inflammatory moisturizer should be part of your recovery with a healthy fat dollop of sunscreen.  Stay off the actives that you have bought and use religiously because you are a very well-educated DermaDarling follower for 7-10 days  (vitamin c, AHAs, retinol, and hydroquinone) .  The peels range in price from $120- 250 each depending on your city. I would highly recommend getting a package of 6 to save some cash, since you know you are going to have to have more than one.   Glycolic acid should be a considered addition to your bag of tricks for smooth gorgeous skin.  Celebrities rumored to be fans of Glycolic acid: Cher, Janice Dickenson, Naomi Campbell.

You are not a candidate for a glycolic peel if:

You have sensitive skin

You want instant results

You want no social “downtime”

You want nothing less than a blooming miracle

You are standing in front of the counter at the nail salon asking about their LivingSocial glycolic acid discount

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I will be teaching an advanced chemical peel course at the Elaine Sterling Institute the first week in November.  For more information on how you can advance your esthetic career please call ESI at 1-877-233-5246

Salicylic acid kicks acne in the teeth, but what about wrinkles?

Even Megan Fox battles the skin gods. Salicylic acid peels should be in her arsenal.

Dubbed by cosmetic chemists on the well toured Chemists Corner blog as ” The most versatile [topical compound] for cosmetic formulators”, this feisty little acid is a gold standard for acne control with anti aging benefits.  Salicylic Acid or Beta Hydroxy Acid   (BHA) has been proven to stand up against Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic, lactic, citric, and tartaric acids) when it comes to skin cell turnover and improving skin tone and texture.  How does it work and who will it work for?  BHA is oil soluble and penetrates that slick layer covering oily skin in order to get deep into the pores for exfoliation and to speed up skin cell turnover. For comparison, AHAs such as glycolic acid are water-soluble and better suited for dry, weathered, sun damaged skin that has been thickened with the elements and genetics.  So, yes!, Salicylic Acid (BHA) exfoliates to not only reduce acne but over time helps to reverse photo damage and smooth pesky wrinkles as well.

Great salicylic Acid products and chemical peels to clear your skin and soften those lines:

PCA Clarifying Mask and the PCA Pumpkin Peel

Obagi Clenziderm 2% salicylic Acid treatment

Obagi Blue Radiance Peel

V.I. Peel

Derma Doctor Aint Misbehavin’ Serum